Montenegro – Places we visited

Background

For its size, Montenegro packs a punch. You could spend months in this country and not run out of things to do, as each town you visit will have its own unique charm – it draws visitors in and invites them to stay awhile. And if you’re a nature lover AND a beach bum, this country just might be your slice of paradise.

We spent about two months in Montenegro, and significant time in Herceg Novi, Budva, and Kotor – the towns which we’ll cover in this article. No doubt, there are still many places to visit, and we will be back soon to explore the rest of the country and write a follow-up in the coming months.

Herceg Novi

Herceg Novi is a coastal town in Montenegro with a population of about 33,000.

With a long history in which the city has been ruled by the Turks, France, Spain, Austria, Venice and Russia, Herceg Novi still carries the marks that is evidenced in the varied architectural styles of each culture.

Places we visited

Old Town

Most towns in Montenegro have their own version of an “Old Town”. Normally situated in the central part of the town, it is also one of the most frequently visited places, as it typically will have restaurants, bars, banks, money-changers congregating in and around the area.

As suckers for old buildings and structures, we were mesmerised by the cobblestones, the thick centuries-old walls, and the history of the area. We made several visits and spent hours walking around, hanging out at different restaurants and cafes that dot the area, and just soaking in the atmosphere.

Clock Tower

Built by the Turks in 1667, the Clock Tower can be seen towering above the main gate to the Old Town. The clock still works but was replaced in the 1995 with an electronic one.

Orthodox Church of Archangel Michael
Price of admission: Free

Built by the Republic of Venice in 1883 and completed by 1911, this church a relatively new addition to the Old Town. It is widely considered to be a jewel not only to the town, but the whole country.

Savina Monastery and Vineyard
Price of admission: Free to visit monastery

A Serbian Orthodox monastery, it is one of the three churches in Herceg Novi, and contains many relics from the time of the Nemanjic Dynasty, composed of the Great Church, the Small Church, and the Temple of Saint Sava, and is believed to have been built by Saint Sava himself in the 13th century.

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Just outside the monastery, there is a very long and steep path that leads to the actual restaurant, where you can enjoy a glass (or bottle) of their wine to quench your thirst after a long and tiring walk. According to the kind waiter who served us, you need to book a reservation; however, after seeing our disappointment, he let us sit and order a glass each of their excellent Merlot. Although it was pricey (EU16 per glass), the wine was one of the best we’ve ever had, and we regretted not ordering an entire bottle which would have cost only EU26 – a much better value. Or better yet, book a tour on their web site, which includes a private tour of the vineyard and winery, with wine tasting paired with food.

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We highly recommend taking a cab up to the vineyard, unless you need to lose a few pounds, or want to work up a thirst, since the walk is long and steep.

Kanli Kula Fortress
Price of admission: EU2

Built by the Turks in 1539, and renovated by the Venetians on several occasions after conquering Herceg Novi, it is an open-air amphitheater and can seat over a thousand. Today it is used to host many events and festivals like the Herceg Novi Film Festival and the Operosa Montenegro Opera Festival.

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Portonovi

A mere 17-minute ride from the Old Town, Portonovi looks and feels like a totally different world, where the well-heeled come for the summer in their fancy boats, and/or to crash in their ridiculously expensive homes. Even the restaurants Portonovi can give you sticker shock, should you dine there.

The Coast

If you’re looking to eat, drink and party, there’s no better way than to take a stroll along the coast. In the summer, you will find restaurants, bars, and cafes side by side, catering to all budgets.

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Budva

Another coastal town in Montenegro on the Adriatic Sea, with a population of approximately 19,000, Budva is one of the oldest settlements on the Adriatic coast. Budva is widely considered to be the center of Montenegrin tourism, with an impressive walled-city, an Old Town teeming with restaurants, and home to some of Montenegro’s best beaches. The Dudley Marina Budva right next to the Old Town has around 300 berths for yachts, and, with some impressive looking rigs anchored, make it seem very chic and a truly world-class destination for the rich. And only a few minutes drive is the ultra-luxurious and exclusive Sveti Stefan, a massive resort which attracts many celebrities like Hollywood stars Orson Welles, Elizabeth Taylor, Brad Pitt, and Angelina Jolie. In fact, Novak Djokovic, the famous tennis player, hired the whole island for his wedding party.

We spent an entire month in Budva, and fell in love with its rustic yet cosmopolitan charm. We did notice that prices in Budva are typically higher than Herceg Novi and quite similar to Kotor – not surprising really, given their popularity with tourists.

Places with visited

Old Town

We’ve only visited three Old Towns in Montenegro (in Herceg Novi, Budva, and Kotor) – and Budva’s is our favourite. Although compact, the maze of winding cobblestone alleys snuggling quaint and cozy cafes and restaurants, made it feel almost magical. It felt exciting to turn a corner and suddenly stumble upon a little bar or pizza stall.

The Citadel – Fortress of Saint Mary
Price of admission: EU3.50

One of the most important monuments in the city, it was built in the 9th century to protect Budva from sea attacks and completed in the 15th century. Today only the northern tower and northern and eastern walls remain. Fortunately, the buildings of the former barracks, gates, fortress walls and the ruins of the Church of Saint Mary, are still standing. Inside the Citadel is a library that is open to the public, and outside, walking along the ancient walls, you will get fantastic views of the the Adriatic coast.

Sveti Stefan
Price of admission: Free outside but EU20 for guided tour on their web site

Or, translated literally – Saint Stephen, is a tiny islet and 5-star hotel resort, about 6 kilometres from Budva. It is now a franchise of the international group, Aman Resorts, famous for its exclusive and luxurious hotels around the world, and patronised by the rich and famous.

Although its website states that it is closed for the rest of the 2021 season, we couldn’t help but pay a visit, just to get close to one of most stunning (at least in our experience) resorts we’ve ever seen.

Up close, it is imposing and awe-inspiring and screams ultra luxury. The walls surrounding this resort ensures that its guests are safe from prying eyes. We were hoping to get a peak inside, but you need to book a guided tour which costs EU20 per person. We decided we’re better off spending this money on food, so we settled for taking a ton of pictures from outside.

Walk from Sveti Stefan back to Old Town

On the way back, we decided to take what we thought would be a scenic, albeit long, walk back to the Old Town, which is very close to our apartment, from Sveti Stefan. Based on Google Maps, it is approximately a 9.5 km walk on the beach, through some parks, and apartment blocks. It started easily enough, a casual stroll on the beach. We headed northwards from Sveti Stefan, along the beach and then on a paved path that passed by some really beautiful hotels, through Park Milocer, and somewhere along the way, we took a turn that led us upwards and into the hills that grew sketchy the further up we climbed.

We continued walking up this path until we reached a dead end and had to turn back, this time a little nervous since we had no idea if we had to walk all the way back to familiar territory, which was quite a long ways away by this time. We backtracked and then found another path which eventually led us out of the woods, but not after a tense and muddy walk through some tall grass.

We eventually found our way back along the beach, which was lined by what looked like family-owned restaurants literally a stone’s throw from the water. We were tempted to stop for lunch, but as still had what looked like at least and hour and a half of walking to go, we decided to continue on towards the Old Town.

We ended up at a random restaurant along the way for a very late lunch. We were starving by this time, not to mention exhausted, from our walk. Luckily, we chose well, as the servings were huge and the food was amazing (not sure if this was because we were starving!).

Budva Ballerina Statue
Price of admission: Free

On Mogren beach, on the outskirts of Budva, stands probably one of the most photographed spots in town – the bronze sculpture of what seems to be a naked woman, who has been christened over the years with many names. Some call her the “Budva Ballerina Statue”, the “Gymnast statue from Budva”, “The Ballerina from Budva”, or, jokingly, “The Girl Who Lost her Swimsuit”.

Layered Rocks of Rafailovici
Price of admission: Free

As you walk towards Mogren Beach on the way to the Ballerina Statue, it’s hard not to notice the curious rock formation beside you. These layered rocks are composed of sedimentary rocks, formed about 400 million years ago.

Kotor

Arguably the most well-known amongst the coastal towns in Montenegro, Kotor boasts a fortified Old Town, considered to be one of the best preserved in the country, and is a “double” UNESCO World Heritage Site – part of the Natural and Culturo-Historical Region of Kotor and the Venetian Works of Defence between 16th and 17th centuries: Stato da Terra – western Stato da Mar.

Places we visited

Old Town

Kotor’s Old Town is supposed to be the very best of all the old towns in Montenegro – at least, this was the opinion of our very loud and friendly Airbnb host, and it’s hard to argue with her. From the walls which completely surround the old town, to numerous monuments of medieval architecture, to the massive San Giovanni Fortress towering above the city and begging to be climbed, and of course the Port of Kotor – a stone’s throw from the Old Town, it has it all, not to mention many cafes and restaurants huddled together in the main square and in little corners as you walk around on cobblestone streets.

Fortress Hike
Price of admission: Free

Climbing up the San Giovanni Fortress was at the top of our list of activities to do in Kotor. So this was the very first thing we did, waking up at 530am on our second day, to brave the cold and the 1.2 kilometre walk up to the fortress, and what we knew would be stunning views of Kotor.

We stepped out of our apartment into the dark and made our way to the Old Town. Access to the fortress begins from inside the main walls, and you’ll be able to find the path towards the northern part of the town. It is hard to miss with all the signs and an impressive arch right on top of the entrance.

Overall impressions

Herceg Novi, Budva and Kotor generally share many similarities when it comes to food, infrastructure, and its people. And this is largely a good thing since there many things about Montenegro there is to love. And having stayed in Montenegro for almost two whole months, we’ve come to enjoy the little things: waking up to a beautiful view of the mountains and the sea at once, the quiet alleyways of the Old Towns after the summer, when most of the tourists have left, and even going out to buy bread for breakfast in your neighbourhood bakery. But the best of Montenegro is its people. Throughout our stay, we’ve made some really good friends, which makes returning in the near future a guarantee.

Want to be an Airbnb host?

As long-term travelers, we book most of our accommodations on Airbnb. It is convenient, simple and quick, and you will never have to find yourself arriving at your destination in the middle of the night, with nowhere to go. Airbnb gives us the freedom and flexibility to adjust our travel plans in an instant. Having met many hosts all over the world, we know that being a host will not only provide you with additional income, but you will also be able to meet (and perhaps even make friends) with interesting people from all over the world. If you think you’d make a great Airbnb host, here’s my invitation link to learn more.